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fashion

First collection of Veronique Branquinho inspired by the films ‘Heavenly creatures’ and ‘Picnic at Hanging rock’ ( strangely the ones I like very much). Such a shame that she is no longer designing under her own name (now she only works for Delvaux). Her works had very distinctive but quiet ‘voice’, discreet charm that couldn’t be seen at first glance but after all her clothes was always worth the second. However while the industry changed so much in the last few years she didn’t seem to be catching up with these changes. In one of her interviews she expressed her concerns about the ever growing pressure to produce something new every six month even if you think that you’re not ready yet. So no surprise that she hadn’t been able to compete with the aggressive expansion of other luxury brands (in terms of both – pr and production). Eventually her brand became one of the victims of the recession. And again – what a shame.

Первая коллекция Вероник Бранкино – вдохновлена фильмами “Небесные создания” и “Пикник у Висячей скалы” (оба из числа моих любимых). Ужасно жаль, что она больше не выпускает коллекций (кажется, сейчас она работает только для Delvaux). У ее работ был свой особый стиль, узнаваемый, но неброский, из разряда тех, которыми проникаешься не с первого взгляда. Но Бранкино не смогла поспеть за изменениями нескольких последних лет – в одном из интервью, она признавалась, что на нее давит сопутствующая профессии дизайнера необходимость презентовать нечто абсолютно новое каждый сезон, даже если нет ощущения, что работа полностью закончена. Неудивительно, что в итоге бренд не выдержал растущей конкуренции со стороны других люксовых марок, успешно наращивавших производство и увеличивавших медиа-присутствие. Так и не сумев перестроиться, марка в итоге закончила свое существование, став одной из жертв экономического кризиса. И снова – очень жаль.

photo: Ronald Stoops

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The exquisite editorial from the winter’s issue of POP magazine. Again perfect Russian photoshoot made by foreign photographer (Hellen van Meene) and stylist(Vanessa Reid). The one photo I love more than the others – where the black leather of the sofa was rhymed with the black puffa jackets worn by the models. And there is one photo I don’t really like – with a Brezhnev portrait because it’s too obvious, to put something like that on the background just to make it look ‘soviet-russian’ but apart from that I think that the photoshoot are truly amazing – so fragile, sublime and sophisticated. And so Russian) Though there is not a single button there by the Russian designers.

Oh, and I like when there are pieces from the past collections (but not vintage) used in the photoshoot because I think that it contributes to the idea that clothes should last more than just one season, it’s so cool to wear something for a long time and have a certain memories attached to a certain pieces. And it’s interesting to see how some old garments could be mixed with the new ones. Like here – the archive pieces from Margiela, Chalayan or Westwood worn together with the latest Prada, Burberry and Balenciaga.

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my number one collection now is Junya Watanabe aw2011 – it’s so strong, clear, sophisticated and modern at the same time and all of these were made just with a few ideas and tricks. in fact, it’s sort of a study of one of the cliche´looks of modern fashion – you know this punk/goth look – biker jackets, chelsea boots, bleached hairs, loose knits and ugly furs. Watanabe made all these look elegant and innovative without a hint of banality or tackiness. This season made me think about his aw07 collection also built around the idea of a deconstructed biker jacket and twisted 30s references, but those one was more about grunge with its polka-dot and liberty-print dresses worn with extended jersey cardigans. But back to aw2011 – just look at the series of waist darts which are responsible for the hourglass shapes of the jackets and at those exaggerated collars forming such an interesting shoulder line. Personally I’m not a fan of the fur pieces, but apart from that I love every single aspect of this collection and of course I was pleasantly surprised to know that the soundtrack for the show was male voice reading Rimbaud’s ‘Ophelia’. Perfect.

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oh my god he did it again, Robot dress- Chalayan’s new hi-tech collab with Swarovski

though instead of ‘a japanese jewellery box’ I cannot fail to think about egyptian sarcofagi you know all these gold forms encapsulating human body.


some time ago I visited the LN-CC- a new London concept-store under creative direction of John Skelton and with the interior by Gary Card. thinking about their Raf Simons and Japanese archives, marshmallow-like Tze Goh dresses and an amazing book selection I have no doubts that the success is inevitable. visit their site or the store itself (by appointment only) if you happen to be in London.

interior pics- Maria Gorodeckaya

Comme des Garçons jacket from Japanese archive

Tze Goh dress

hadn’t check her works for quite some time and was surprised by her few last collections- good tailoring and immaculate details (though Ploier‘s Messenger and 3D was the her best collections for me).

also I always like the way she presents her work on the web – below are elegantly twisted looks from fw2010 collection Man Machine, industrial take on the type of fashion photography which concentrates on capturing the most impressive silhouettes and lines

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Kind of re-post, but this theme is of great interest for me so I’ll put it here anyway. A part of a text about the future of fashion that I wrote for my another blog (in russian)-

‘It may seem that all the last futuristic experiments in fashion are only a drop in an ocean, that couldn’t change anything in the industry in the near future. In fact that interest in modern technologies as well as forthcoming changes in the fashion world are the consequences of tendencies that already influenced the development of modern society in lots of different aspects. Thus there is no question as to whether will we use the results of these experiments, but there is still a question what forms will they adapt to and how will they affect fashion industry.

For now we could observe that big brands are in no hurry to use the fruits of progress and there are a number of reasons for it. Firstly we have a recession that slowed down all the experiments which are quite costly not to mention the unpredictability of the results of applying them. Also considering the tough times there is a certain nostalgia on the runways aiming to recreate the feeling of stability and peace. At the same time for a designer it is quite a challenge to embrace a new technologies because he should change the way he works fundamentally. He will not only has to reconsider his aesthetic  in order to adapt it to the new features and opportunities. He also will has to change the whole process of work cooperating with the engineers, video artists and a wide range of different technologists and specialists whose commitment will be required by the innovative nature of the idea behind the collection. Because of these difficulties it is logical to assume that it should be haute couture which has to take the role of the explorer of innovative technologies in the fashion field. The haute couture itself is in desperate need of high-tech reincarnation. The time-consuming and expensive techniques couldn’t be a problem for the luxury ateliers with tens of years of history. However the essence of haute couture is not just in the quantity of hours spent on hand-sewing and beadwork for each outfit or in the sky-high price range but in the boundary-pushing design. This is the true luxury. By these criteria the best examples of high-tech fashion could be placed between the most outrageous haute couture fantasies. Every one of Chalayan’s animatronic dresses took nearly half a year of work of a group of specialists- fashion and engineering designers, seamstresses and pattern-makers. The result of such work made everyone look in awe even the seen-it-all critics, while the Haute couture fashion weeks regularly produce only doubts and questions for the worth of its own existence. Perhaps, the injection of technologies would be able to make designers rethink the essence of haute couture in terms of new times and bring back the status of real art pieces to its creations.

hussein chalayan aw08

Nowadays, the examples of synthesis of arts and technologies have a noticeable presence in the presentation area. For quite a long time now runways had been infused with ‘the special effects’. Just remember those choreographic performance done by former ballerina Shalom Harlow at the finale of Alexander McQueen ss99 show, where robots were splattering wet paint on her crisp white dress or the mesmerizing hologram of Kate Moss in the finale of the fashion show of the same designer in aw06 season.  Most likely that in future the fashion show will be fully made on the computer and represented in form of 3D hologram runway. This way it will be possible to do a countless variations of experiments and visuallize literally everything that comes to designer’s mind.’

I suspect that there are lots of mistakes but hope that the main idea is clear enough)

Few weeks ago I was at the viewing of Kerry Taylor auction for vintage and antique fashion. There was an amazing selection of clothes and accessories from various decades of fashion and even of 18th and 19th centuries. It was a lovely journey through the vintage Chanel, Paco Rabanne, Madame Gres, Galliano, McQueen, Comme des Garcons, Balmain etc. I could see and appreciate every tiny detail in these pieces, how immaculately they was made, how exquisitely decorated. However the ones I liked most of all were those slightly worn out bystanders of the long bygone eras with damaged beadwork, fragile laces, exposed stitching, like this old Lanvin dress. And of course there were quite nice Comme des Garcons and Issey Miyake pieces from late 80s and early 90s.

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so this Halloween was a grand fun as I was at the Boudicca Cake competition. Unlike the previous year this time I made a real cakes and I guess I should stay within my illustration skills-  my berry tarts looked like a total disaster (too much icing)) although they were taasty. And I put the names of my favorite horror films on it in tiny sugar letters. All in all it was really lovely- cakes, vodka, The Smiths and Fever Ray, and lots of  wonderful people.

Black Grace dolls made by Jun Takahashi of Undercover for Louis Vuitton. Don’t actually know why the heck did he make these ones for LV, but they’re even better than the white ones. I wish they were alive)

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